Sponge: Preheat the oven to 350F and line the bottom of a 9×9-inch pan with parchment.
Sponge: Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
Sponge: Whip the brown sugar into the egg yolks until lighter in color and slightly thickened, then mix in the whole milk and vanilla.
Sponge: Sift the dry ingredients into the yolk mixture and stir until no dry flour remains, without overmixing.
Sponge: Whip the egg whites until foamy, then gradually add the granulated sugar and whip to glossy medium-stiff peaks.
Sponge: Fold one-third of the whites into the batter to lighten, then gently fold in the rest in two additions.
Sponge: Spread the batter evenly in the pan and bake about 25 minutes, until the top springs back and a toothpick comes out clean. Cool completely.
Soak: Whisk together the evaporated milk, coconut milk, condensed milk, whole milk, cinnamon, vanilla, and salt (warm gently if the coconut milk separated).
Soak: Poke holes all over the cooled sponge with a fork, then slowly pour the milk over in several additions, letting it absorb between pours.
Soak: Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
Cream: Whip the heavy cream, powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt to soft medium peaks and spread generously over the chilled cake in soft swooshes.
Toppings: Toast fresh corn kernels in a dry skillet until lightly golden and fragrant; cool. Toast coconut flakes at 325F for 5 to 8 minutes if not already toasted.
Toppings: Drizzle caramel over the cream, then scatter the toasted corn and coconut on top. Serve chilled.
A Thanksgiving dessert that reimagines cornbread as cake, from @jesswang.pastry on Instagram.
